Launceston's Cataract Gorge

Lonnie (Launceston) has some amazing natural features. The Tamar River runs from Bass Strait, the coast and wanders, snakelike to the inland port of Launceston. Along the way the river becomes a little obese, giving the impression of lakes along the way. The tide changes the appearance of the river during the 24 hours of the day from river mud flats to a fast moving river way. At the end of the Tamar River as it arrives at  Lonnie it becomes two rivers - the South and North Esk rivers. One of these rivers - the South Esk runs from Cataract Gorge.

You can walk from a cafe in the central business district and within a 20 to 30 minutes casual walk, you can enter Cataract Gorge. Leaving the sound of city traffic you find yourself in the tranquility of the gorge where the peaceful sounds of water rushing over the craggy rocks mingle with bird sounds and sometimes the breeze through the trees.

The earliest recorded visit to this area was made by settler William Collins in 1804 when exploring the Port in the ship "Lady Nelson". He was particularly impressed by the South Esk and its cataract and wrote, "Upon approaching the entrance I observed a large fall of water over rocks, nearly a quarter of a mile up a straight gully between perpendicular rocks about 150 ft high. 

After watching the below you tubes, tell us why we would not consider Lonnie as our new home.







THis probably our fourth visit to Tasmania and like France, we keep returning because its a comfortable place to be.

5 Days in LONNIE

Yes, I know its been a while since we last posted. Work, family and house renovation has depleted our time to blog. I've just negotiated a four day work week as a transition to retirement. That probably just means packing five into four. We'll see.

Lonnie is what the locals affectionately call Launceston in Tasmania. We decided awhile ago to visit during Launceston's Festivale - 3 days of food, wine and entertainment.

We flew in on mid-day Thursday to pick up the hired SUV but with a problem. 4 people, luggage and 2 bikes would not fit. One of the people, Rhani came to our rescue and said she would bring our bikes in later that evening as she had to come into Lonnie anyway. How friendly was that.

We decided to go to lunch in Evandale, about 5 kms down the road from the airport. Here's a few scenes from the historic village of Evandale.

Scenes from Evandale

Horse trough made from stone

The Evandale Pub - every year Evandale holds the Penny Farthing Australian Championships.
It passes by the Pub with each lap and then fills up to toast the Champion.

The Beer Garden of the Clarendon is a perfect spot for a cool beer on a summer's day under the leafy spread of the trees while chooks and peacocks wander amongst the drinkers.

This cart was in the beer garden with the under growth embracing it.

I couldn't resist taking a few photos of the cart.

We arrived at our five night stay - The Aldrington, previously an historic convent converted to guest accommodation.
Its our second visit to the Aldrington and our host, James joined us on the balcony which overlooks the compact city of Lonnie. (pop 95.000). 

We'll show more of our extended weekend in Lonnie over the next few days with some interesting stories - we hope.

Searching for a New Home

We drove to Melbourne Airport on Thursday afternoon for a three day stay at Launceston, Tasmania. Why? 
Well its still a consideration for the next phase of our life. As we sat in the airport lounge we struck up a conversation with a lady who was from Launceston who mentioned how she enjoyed the lifestyle of the city - she lived in an area where we hope to see some property on this visit. She offered to help with Sue’s bag, how kind. As we boarded the plane, there she was in our row of three so we chatted some more on the less than one hour flight from Melbourne to Launceston. It takes the same time to drive from our home in Mentone by the bay to Melbourne Airport.

A pretty impressive bedroom for three nights in Launceston.

Looking out from the garden.

As we left the plane at Launceston, she offered advice on where we would pick up our hire car and also some nice places to eat in town. As we bid goodbye, Sue formally introduced herself as did our new found friend - she was also a Susan.

We picked up the hire car, unlocked with the keys in the glove box - trusting souls!!

Our accommodation, Auldington House began as a convent in the late 1800s up until it became a private hotel in 2005. Our room was huge with a large en suite and a spa bath. (and most reasonable rates I must say)

Being hungry we took the advice of our new found friend on the plane and went to Calebrisella in Wellington Street. The owner Lorenzo greeted us warmly and we exchanged pleasantries. Being bold as I’m sometimes inclined to be, I started asking questions - such as, how long have you been here, what enticed you to settle here and many other interrogations. 

It seems that Lorenzo met a Launceston lady over 30 years ago while working on a Caribbean cruise ship and they clicked. He came to Launceston and made a life for himself while building an authentic southern Italian restaurant in a city where there would have been very few Italians back then. Most Italian immigrants came to Melbourne and that’s why we have such a great Italian culture of food and coffee. We slept well that night.

Friday we went to look at two houses. Both were on the outskirts of Launceston - that’s about 15 minutes from the CBD, with views to the mountains in the distance. In the depths of winter you can see snow on the top of the mountains.

The first house was almost perfect for us and for friends to visit. What more could a man want, a four car garage with his own rumpus room and en-suite. Just a shame that it 18 months too early for us. The other we looked at was fine but not quite right.

Dinner was at the Brisbane Street Bistro with Duck for Sue and Veal for me. Nice but not up to the standard we expected.

Saturday morning started with the local Farmer's Market in the CBD and I have to say that it even had that village feel about it. Some great local produce was available but except for some locally grown garlic, there was no room in our carry on luggage.

 Late morning was another house hunting escapade looking at a recently built home at a suburb called Riverside no more than 10 minutes from the CBD. Nice but not us - too modern, no charm, but a good price. 30 minutes later we were on the other side of the city looking at a 1930s home in Newstead that oozed with charm in a delightful neighbourhood. It did require some attention in the areas of the bathroom but Sue was captivated by the kitchen.

In the afternoon we were off to meet and greet cycling people at an annual bike race - it's all about creating a new social circle in advance of making a new like elsewhere before making the big plunge.

There was an annual cycling race on and we (I) decided we needed to meet some new friends and we did. It’s important with a move to create a social circle and the sport of cycling makes it very easy. On the return to the city, we stopped in at a Vineyard called Velo. It is run by a past Australian cyclist who raced on the continent at the Tours of Spain and Italy. Michael Wilson produces a great Pinot Noir and a Chardonnay that has that French Touraine style.

The end of the afternoon was descending on us and we (I) wanted to see the Tasmanian Motor Museum in the city. They had some great examples of motoring history that started me salivating over the exotica on display. 

Saturday night we went back to see Lorenzo at his Italian restaurant with a bottle of Michael Wilson’s Pinot Noir. Again we were welcomed with open arms - just the garlic pizza and a bowl of pasta each this time but the highlight was Lorenzo's home made Limoncello. He gave us two glasses - one of an Australian commercial brand the other,  his own concoction - no competition, his knocked the socks of the other as well as ourselves.

So ended a long weekend in Launceston - it was mainly to see if we felt the same about the city, explore the real estate possibilities and see if we could fit in socially. I think we came away in a positive frame of mind and we shall keep our options open.

Although the weather was cold, the people are warm.

What Does the Future Hold?

Sue and I have been considering the path of our future over the next two to three years. Next week I turn 64, my father turns 93 and my daughter turns 41. Our boys are 26 and 28. Andrew expects to be in Germany for a year in 2015. We don't know where our intrepid adventurer Mitchell will be.

Having said this, where we live seems a little incidental when it comes to family. We've just bought some cheap air fares for a long weekend back to Launceston, Tasmania. It gives some time to look at some real estate with some serious contemplation of relocation. Melbourne - Our Home by the Bay could become "Being a Devil in Tasmania".

It seems that Launceston offers some lovely heritage homes and also very modern new homes at prices that allow for us to infuse further funds towards our retirement. It has a slower more peaceful lifestyle that will suit  our pace. Tassie offers a landscape similar to parts of the UK, a great foodie culture and very little traffic compared to Melbourne.

From the west view

From the east view

OLd Launceston

The Tamar river meanders through Launceston giving it a restful feeling and the buildings are no higher than a fewer levels as you can see. It is after all Australia's third settlement after Sydney and Hobart.

All the properties below sell at a price that allows for a reasonable profit from our "Home on the Bay". We like old world but we will probably lean towards modern. Who knows what the future holds.

This house is in Evandale about 20 kms from Launceston