Last Day in Rome

Our stay in Rome was coming to an end and quite frankly we were most excited with the prospect of a week in Toscana but more about that in a week or two.
With only four days in Rome it was a matter of packing as much time into each day and our second last day was no exception.

The FORUM

Truly amazing, it was one of the things I most wanted to see in Rome – the hub of political and commercial life in ancient Rome. Excavations are still in progress today unearthing the secrets of Rome. Many of these ancient structures were first excavated in the 18th Century. We really needed more time to appreciate the full enormity of the Forum.

As we entered the Forum, our path was blocked by a swarm of tourists but as we ventured further into the Forum we found ourselves alone and able to absorb the many ancient structures and the amazing architecture.

The Temple of Antonius and Faustina is a more recent building (1601) but built on foundations from the 1st century AD. I wish we could have taken a full day to wander the Forum. I was so captivated by it all, that I forgot to take more photos.

So here's one I stole from Wikipedia.

Caesar’s body was cremated within the Forum after his assassination in 44 BC and we walked by the very spot, not to mention the house of the Vestal Virgins and the temples of Romulus and the sights of several Basilicas. It really was too much to absorb in one short visit.

Piazza SAN PIETRO and the VATICAN MUSEUM

There was to be some form of "appearance the following day and chairs were being set up in front of Saint Peters in the Piazza San Pietro as we passed by on our way to the Vatican Museum.

Now, I’m not catholic, I’m not even religious. I do however live by the ethics of certain life rules and the treatment of fellow man. I do however question why there are so many riches within the Vatican Museum. It’s difficult sometimes to judge who really were the biggest looters of the world’s greatest treasures, but at least these treasures are preserved for us to admire, however they are still looting us with the admission fees. Oh well, it was worth it to see Michelangelo’s “the Last Judgment” in the Sistine Chapel. And the ceiling – no words can describe his work, you need to be there.

Marble statue of the Tojan Priest Laocoon and sons in battle with 2 serpents.
1st Century AD 

The TREVI FOUNTAIN

As romantic as it was, what amused me about the Trevi Fountain was the crowd of tourists there (and we were part of it). Yes, I took pictures of the fountain but I found the gathering of people and their antics more interesting. People enjoyed the sunshine while eating Gelati and throwing coins into the water. I’m glad we experienced the Trevi Fountain and now four years on and reminiscing of our 2006 trip, I ask myself, would I return to Rome. With some trepidation, I say yes, but I would be more prepared to enjoy the history of ancient Rome while trying to ignore modern Rome.

The Trevi Fountain

And the crowds of tourists.

Maybe I will never return to Rome as I didn’t throw any coins into the fountain but many do as it is estimated that 3000 Euro end up in the fountain every day. It goes to help the needy of Rome I’m told.
Rome for me was a bit of a Love/Hate thing in many ways. I loved its history but couldn’t understand why someone would want to deface the historic architecture with graffiti. The city was too frenetic and we were looking forward to the rural Italy.

That would only be another 24 hours away, not without some drama – next Wednesday all will unfold.

Scenes from Rome

Rome could thrill you, impress you with its rich history, while depress you with its scenes of poverty, graffiti and frenetic pace. We didn't realise the serenity that we would experience in Tuscany, but that was still a few days ahead of us.

Andrew I decide we needed some exercise, so a run thru the streets of Rome was in order.

Many huge monuments of ancient Roman times make you gasp, but this was a memorial to some local person. A family member possibly, but no less important to those of history.

My son Andrew and I ventured out for a run through the streets of Rome and as we left the apartment, there was an old man collecting discarded fruit and vegetables from the bins of the morning market. His take home basket was probably no less impressive as our own and a lot cheaper.
Our run took us up towards the Colosseum and along the Tiber where we came across more homeless people. It was unnerving to see the poverty of Rome, not something that we often see at home. It is there but we don't often see ourselves amongst it as we did in Rome. As we ran up towards the Colosseum we saw people dressed as Gladiators being photographed with Tourists willing pass over a few euros for the privilege.
The Gladiators would take turns of being photographed while the other would take the opportunity for a "smoko". Not sure if the Romans had a "ciggie" in those days.

The Ponte Fabricio built in 62 BC is still in use today.

The run took us to the oldest still used bridge across the Tiber.

While the remains of an earlier bridge stands in its shadows.

But below were some homeless that had taken up residence with their dogs.

Yes, we saw some sad scenes during our run but the most impressive scene to me was one that you couldn't see but had to visualise. The Circus Maximus was the scene of chariot races and I had read about it before we left Melbourne. I needed to see it.
No more than a a parkland these days, I sat there for some time while imagining the races that took part there. From 400 BC to 549 AD when the last chariots raced, it was the largest spectator arena holding up to 500,000 people.
This grassy area seems not to be held in awe by the locals as there was rubbish and the remains of small fires littering this famous location.

Circus Maximus - Today!

The Circus Maximus then.

Our run then took us further along the Tiber towards the Vatican and back to the Campo and a cool beer.

We would return to the Vatican and the museum with Sue but on our run we passed by Piazza San Pietro on our return to the Campo de Fiori.

But of the many scenes of Rome, I think the Fiat Bambino and the Vespa say it all for me!!

Our afternoon run offered us scenes of Rome that we may not have experienced on a tourist bus or guided tour. It was an experience of mixed emotions. One one hand you see fashion conscious women walking in high heels on the cobble stoned piazza while the homeless sleep under bridges of the polluted Tiber. Such extremes, such contrast but such memories running through the streets with my son. I'm sure in many years to come we will discuss that run.

FIRST FULL DAY in ROME

Our first full day in Rome

After a well deserved good sleep and a light breakfast, we ventured down the stairway. Opening the front main door we were confronted by the Campo de Fiori market. Sue wrote in the diary;

Out the apartment door.

“SENSATIONAL!!!

1 butcher, 2 fish stalls, complete with whole Marlin from which they cut steaks to order – and a great many veggie stalls. The quality and freshness of the produce was fabulous. Tiny aromatic wild strawberries, fresh as anything. A number of salad veggies I had never seen before – everything so fresh and inspiring to cook with.

And into the market place. This is what confronted us each morning.

I bought some produce to cook with tonight – warm salad with potatoes, fennel, beans with pesto and steak for us. I do however miss French bread.

This market is amazing in that it appears every morning and disappears for the mid-day lunching crowd.”

An unbelievable choice awaits you.

After returning to the apartment and filling up the fridge, it was time for a light snack and a cool beer before trekking off for our walk of discovery.

Our walk took us out of Campo de Fiori to the Piazza Navona where hundreds of years ago chariot races were held. Three beautiful fountains take central focus as you walk the length of Piazza Navona amongst the shops, cafes and street performers. Just writing about it makes me want to return.

 

The Pantheon - looking in.

 
As we wandered off down narrow laneways, not knowing where our walk would take us, we came out of a walkway to be confronted by Rome’s Pantheon. This temple of all Gods was designed by Hadrian and built on the foundations of the first Pantheon of 27-25 BC.

The Pantheon - looking out.

We just spent some down time absorbing this amazing structure before venturing on to be impacted with modern day Rome at the Piazza Venezia. Cars, motorcycles and scooters fight modern day duels with pedestrians – a pure scene of possibly organised chaos but I couldn’t see it. We had to just stand there and absorb what was happening around us.

An actual quiet moment at Piazza Venezia.

Largo Argentina sits in a depression, rectangle in shape while buses, cars and the locals pass by without a second glance. This historic site is home to what seems like hundreds of cats sunning themselves in the afternoon as we we passed by. Largo Argentina is the site of Pompey’s Theatre. Thought to have been built 300 BC, the site is a refuge for homeless cats as well as a visual museum of early Rome.
 

Scenes of Largo Argentina

From Wikipedia:

After Italian unification, it was decided to reconstruct part of Rome (1909), demolishing the zone of Torre Argentina. During the works (1927), however, the colossal head and arms of a marble statue were discovered. The archeological investigation brought to light the presence of a holy area, dating to the Republican era, with four temples and part of Pompey's Theater. Julius Caesar was killed on the steps of the Theatre of Pompey, and the spot he was believed to be assassinated is in the square.

Another well deserved beer was enjoyed in the Campo de Fiori, just out side our apartment doorway before taking a well earned rest after a delightful day’s discovery walk in Rome.

The Campo de Fiori at night - full of excitement

Just writing these memories make me want to return to Rome armed with an increased awareness of its history.