Invalides, Napoleon and dinner.

It's come and gone - the original reason to come to Paris was to celebrate my 60th birthday. We were to have a party at home but I jokingly tell people that when it came to inviting my friends, both of them couldn't make it, so here we are in Paris.

We hit the Metro once again with only one change over and on alighting from the underground, the sun was shining with a few heavy puffs of clouds occasionly filtering the sun at times. From the "Sortie" or exit point we came out at a road that ran beside the Seine. As usual we emerged from furthest point of where we wanted to be, that's just us. Sue claims that its a skill really.

The view from when coming out of the underground station.

Pont Alexandre III was there in all it's glory. The statues that adorn the bridge are covered in section by gilt and the sun highlights those section giving the bridge a spectacular appearance. The foundation stone was laid in 1896 and dedicated to the alliance between France and Russia and therefore take's its name from Russian Tsar Alexandre III.

Pont Alexandre III with its ornate lamps and gilded statues.

What is Paris without a photo of the Eiffel Tower - strangely after four vists to Paris, I have never been up the tower. I don't even like climbing ladders.

Today we went to Hotel des Invalides, which holds the museum of the Army. Quite spectacular it is. Under the huge gold dome of the building is the resting place of Napoleon Bonepart. His huge polished timber coffin rests in an open crypt.

Cannons lined up outside the empty moat of Invalides

One of the entrances to Invalides - we came in on the side of the Seine. The other side takes you direct to Napoleon's tomb.

In the background is the gilded dome above the tomb of Napoleon.

And the inside of the dome above Napoleon's tomb

Of most interest to us was the Museum of the Army which displays centuries of solder's armour and weapons. The displays also depict the great battles and and the changing of Europe's borders due these battles.

Note the small bracket on the rib section of the armour. Possibly used to hold the lance for jousting.

The museum depicting the Liberation of France held my interest and I could have spent more time absorbing the exhibition. It delt with the French resistance, deportation of the Jews,  Gypsies, the handicapped and anyone else that didn't fit the accepted Germanic criteria during Hitler's reign. Displays telling the story of the Normandy beach landings had particular significance as we had been there in 2007.

Three posters that attracted my attention at the Musee de L'Ordre de la Liberation.

Sorry folks but the obligitory bike photos are for my cycling mates back home. I saw this young woman  wheeling her fixed wheel bike down our street as we were having a quiet wine. It looked very new and so "not her" considering her attire.

And this cool Frenchman at least stopped riding his fixie when his phone rang.

The day finished with dinner at an Italian Restaurant around the corner from home.

It really is a great area to live in for a couple of Foodies. Really its Sue who is the Foodie, she loves to cook and I love to eat.

Today's Arty-Farty is of twigs against a wall.

Stolen friends, being tourists and dinner.

Today I went riding with my two Paris cycling friends. Both I have stolen from other friends.

Sketch  for the Day - done over a glass of port.

Leigh, an Aussie residing in the 11e I’ve cycled with on my past two visits. I stole him from one of my home buddies, Rowdy. We call Rowdy, Rowdy because he’s very shy and quiet. Really he's Chris in his normal life. Anyway, Leigh and his partner Sophie have made Paris more comfortable for us through their friendship.

The other friend is Michel Briat and I met him on my last visit. Michel I stole from my very good friend back home, Michael Goldie who is recovering from a fractured hip. Michel has been to Oz for the World Masters Cycling championships previously.

Michel decided to take me to this place for old folk like me to meet women I'm told. Leigh agreed that it is/was a well known pick-up joint. Glad it was closed. By the way, the reason I have my arms folded and standing so close to Michel was that I was sooooooo bloody cold. It didn't reach double figures and on the way home Leigh and I were caught in the hail, brrrrrrrr.
Michel speaks very little English and me, well I’m hopeless with French but I enjoy his company. We sort of get by but it would be so much more rewarding to understand each other more. I’m sure we have a great deal in common.

On meeting I was greeted with the usual French cheek kissing which made me feel accepted as a true friend. Leigh was our interpreter on our morning ride which was most kind of him. During the ride Leigh started to get his English and French mixed a little and next thing I knew he was speaking French to me and English to Michel.

We met at the Cipale Velodrome, home of the Tour de France finish on many occasions during the Eddy Merckx era. Michel rides one of his bikes and had personal contact with the great man when purchasing his bike. I feel like I ride with cycling royalty.

Our ride took us in locations unknown to me so I just clung to Michel’s wheel for safety. Towards the end of our ride the heavens opensed and with the wind and rain came the hail, home just in time.

As Leigh and I arrived at the apartment door, there was Sue arriving back after shopping.
After a shower and lunch it was time to hit the Metro once again. I think Sue and I both have southern hemisphere GPS systems as we walked the opposite direction to the Metro station we needed. Just another adventure to experience.
The Metro is a wonderful system, that is if you don’t need to navigate the main station Chatelet. It’s underground nightmare. I’m sure its fine for the locals but a poor old tourist like myself!!!!

I'm sure the Metro is not as confusing as I make out but publlc transport, even at home causes me to hyper-ventilate. (oh what a sooky, sooky, la la he is! It isn't confusing at all - except Chatellet where it would be quicker to walk the whole distance! Sue)

We decided that Il de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis would be today’s destination. We return to on each visit to Paris to Il de la Cite. It’s the home of Notre Dame. An unexplored feature is the Parvis, where the original foundations of the early Parissi tribe made Il de la Cite their home.

No tourists, the back of Notre Dame is soooo peaceful. Please don't tell the rest of the world.

The tourists, and there are heaps, litter the forecourt of the great cathedral. If you sneak around the back, you can absorb the architecture in the peace and quietude of the park that the tourists are not aware of. Listen to me!!! I’m not a tourist???? Yeah right.
Bitterly cold, we both needed a chocolat  chaud to warm us up. Behind Notre Dame is a memorial to the thousands of Jews that were incarcerated by the Nazis. It’s a very sobering memorial and I for one, wonder how any race could do this to another group of humans.
We crossed a small “pont” that took us to Ile Saint-Louis. This small island of the Seine echoed with the sound of harsh, loud American accents. I have several American friends and spent a summer racing in California, but I have a need to move on sometimes when I hear the accent of the uninitiated American tourist. We have them (Aussie tourists) also. It just seemed that we didn’t hear any local voices. We only seemed to hear LOUD voices with American accents around Notre Dame and Ile Saint-Louis especially.

The doorways and windows of Ile Saint-Louis

It was time for a red wine before moving on - the choice was a glass of Bordeaux in a lovely little café on the corner with a pretty yellow Citroen Deux Chevaux parked outside.

Shopping on the way home.

We found a great little wine shop in the street with excellent service. Staying in one place more that a few days allows you to become part of the life flow. People come to recognise you and are very helpful. Unfortunately Nicolas, our wine shop had only one Australian wine on the shelf and a very poor choice, “ “Yellow Tail”. No wonder the French have very little appreciation of our great wines. Where are the Coonawarra’s, the Yarra Valley’s, and the Barossa, McLaren Vales, not to mention the WA and Tassie wines. How can you consider an OZ Yellow Tail when you can buy an acceptable Bordeaux at less than AUS$10. Nicolas is a wine shop chain that can be seen in almost every area in Paris. A bit like a minute Dan Murphy.

Dinner tonight.

How easy. Cold day, we got rained on, hailed on and sunshined on, many times for each and in no particular order.

I needed soup! Not just any soup mind you, but French onion soup with gratineed cheesy toasty bread on top. Warm…yum…

Couldn’t buy readymade stock, had to rely on cubes, but cooked the onions down until they were dark and luscious, added a little red wine, stock and cooked it down. Added the cheesy toasts and grilled it all. It worked.

Sue's home made French Onion Soup - great winter comfort food.

Cooked the last duck breast with garlic and herbs and sliced it onto salad of lettuce, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, avocado and roasted waxy potatoes. Added a warm vinagrette made again with blood orange juice and it’s done.

The wines of the Loire Valley - Pouilly, Vouvray, Saumur. Visit Uncle Dan's (Murphy's)and try one or two but don't expect to get them as cheaply as here.

Time for coffee….thanks Leon.
OK Sue but don't rush me, I'm trying to get another Blog out.

Today's Arty-Farty Photo

Tomorrow is my 60th birthday, that is if you go by this blog, however, I'm a day behind. Today is my birthday but that was yesterday if you are reading this today. But in Australia, my birthday was yesterday's, yesterday. Huh, I'm really confused, are you??? (Sue says its only coz I'm 60).

Now about tomorrow's blog, which is about today's adventures.
A day at Hotel National des Invalides or saying hello to Nappy B.

Sketch for the Day

An elderly couple walked down the cobbled street rugged up against the cold but as the sun peeped through the clouds, their bodies cast shadows behind them.

The Morning Walk

Tuesday saw me, at Sue's request to once again run down the street to purchase the baguette for brekkie. I refrained from the vegemite this time opting for jam.

The weather here is still, well spring coming out of winter with the day being unpredictable. Sunshine, rain, sometimes windy - much the same as Melbourne. If you don't like the weather, wait a moment and it will change.
We decided on a relaxing start to the day leaving at 9.30 am for our discovery walk of Paris. We had planned to discover one of the covered hallways at the end of our street. We have them in Melbourne and we call them arcades. This one had interesting little shops with some esoteric art being displayed.

Covered hallways of inner Paris "Passage du Grand Cerf"

Some of the most interesting sights are above eye level.

One door knob is just a door knob but a basket full, now there's a different concept.

It's always good practice to draw the shades before putting on your jewellery.

Fathers and sons - an exhibition in the underground of Les Halles

In the atrium of Les Halles this sculpture appeared - I stood studying it for a while and took a different view of it in this next pic.

I guess it is all about just how you view life generally, oui!!!

What is graffiti and what is street art?

This cat appeared in various locations on our walk - could it been the Cheshire Cat from Alice in Wonderland. Johnny Depp seemed to be on posters allover Paris.

A couple of years ago I bought one of these guys in Rocamadour in the Dordogne. Now he has a new team member.

The Arvo (afternoon) Bike Ride

In the mid arvo, the weather was looking good so I chucked on the lycra for a ride around town. It's not too hard to ride around Paris, it's just that I get so bloody lost all the time. I have no idea where I went or how I got back home. You see, I have a southern hemisphere internal GPS. I have never been lost in Melbourne. Here in Paris, everything is upside down. Yes, I know, it's us who are from a land downunder. I did happen to stumble across a Fixie and Classic bike shop which we found last year. It serves hot chocolate.

When I first started racing a bike with Zeus equipment was common.

Shopping and the Evening Meal

After a big day, it was nice to relax in front of the tele with a few vins, a great meal finishing with a brewed coffee. Our apartment is very comfortable with a few DVDs and on this occasion we watched a French movie that we had seen at home. In English, it was called, "Welome to the Schticks", in French, "Bienvenue chev les CH'TIS" with an actor we enjoy, Dany Boon.

Last time we saw it was with sub-titles but not this time. Regardless, it was no less enjoyable and we found ourselves laughing.

Three wines from the regions of the Longuedoc Minervoir, Bordeaux and Cahor in the Dordogne. It's fun to taste the wines from the various regions of France.

Sue's new toy - a julienne cutter

Blood red oranges that Sue used for the sauce with the canard. These are not common back home, certainly not in the usual Marche.

What more can I say but, Magnificent - check out my plate below, and I ate Sue's left overs.

Sue has her say!!!

Things I have discovered or rediscovered about Paris

1. Bring a good hair conditioner - the water here is so hard it turns my hair to steel wool, and gets very big, as in 80's "big hair"

2. People are generally very helpful. If you stop on the street to look at a map, someone will offer you assistance.

3. It's just as easy to get lost here as it is at home - bugger! Still no sense of direction.

4. Although a big city with it's share of big city problems it is a very beautiful place to be.

Rue Montorgueil is an amazing foodie street. Several boucheries, boulangeries, wine shops, fromageries (you can smell them from a distance - in a nice way, kind of), as well as flower shops and a few smallish supermarkets. The fruit shops have amazing displays and the produce looks great.

It has been fun to decide what to buy.

Prices vary greatly, but to us Aussies, always on the side of expensive.

I looked to buy duck breasts yesterday. From  the butcher, they were over 22 euro per kg, and as they are large that was a bit ouch.  At the superU, they were on special in a pack of 3 for under 7 euro the lot, which is a huge price difference.  That meant one each for dinner, cooked with a blood orange sauce, yum, and one left to make into a warm salad another time. Can't argue with that price.

The weather here is unpredictable as Leon said, but unfailingly cold. We have been caught in the rain a couple of times, and this morning I got caught in a short but heavy hail squall. In between times the sun comes out and you can be fooled into thinking it's fined up. Wrong though. Very much like Melbourne in that respect.

Today is Leon's last day at 59! Poor old codger. Oh well, I'd better go and find his slippers and warm shawl. Take care.

Tomorrow:

Leon goes for a ride with his two Paris friends and then Sue takes Leon to Ile de la Cite and Ile Saint-Louis